Tonight we will be eating a variation on a recipe that appears in this Sunday's Food Diary in the New York Times: tagliatelle with yogurt and caramelized onions. I'm of two minds about Amanda Hess, the current Food Diarist -- there's a lot to like about her column, but her tone is just a little too redolent of Sex in the City for me. The recipe, however, adapted from Diane Kochilas' The Glorious Foods of Greece, is unequivocally appealing.

Steamed spinach and lamb's quarters on the side.